Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Lakswadweep, The only coral island of India

We reached Cochin to take our voyage to the coral islands by the ship Kavaratti. We had to reach the Lakhswadweep wharf at Willingdon island, Cochi within 10 am. Here it is just like airplane check in  system you need boarding pass, baggage drop, security check and ultimately a short ride by bus to the ship. We embarked the ship at around 11 am. We were informed to remain in our cabins till the checked in baggage reach our cabins. The staffs are pretty efficient as they do not make any mistake in distributing them quickly and efficiently in tourist's cabin. The ship has five stories. Upper three stories are meant for tourists of first and second class. The lower floors are for islanders since ship is their only mode of transportation with the mainland. Fourth floor of the ship where we stayed in cabin number 915 also has the dining hall and recreation room.
The ship ultimately sailed at around 3 pm  quite sometime after we had finished our lunch on board.
There is public announcement system in each cabin for every kind of announcements from the captain or the tour manager. Daily schedules as well as the rules and regulations are noted in a chart attached to each cabin wall. The cabin has a two tier comfortable bed with removable stair to go to the upper bed, a corner table with shelf and drawers and two comfortable chairs. There is a wardrobe as well. The attached bath room is comparably large if you compare it with planes or trains with all modern amenities like warm water in basin and shower with perfectly temperature controlled mechanism. I was quite impressed. On the table there was a fruit bowl with apples and oranges along with two mineral water bottles.
The tour manager called all the tourists at the recreation room a little after ship sailed and reached deep sea to discuss about the various things of the tour and the things we shall have to know regarding the ship. The attending doctor as well as the welfare manager was also present for this gathering. The ship has a small but full fledged hospital in case of any medical emergency. This gives you a confidence. All these officers are local people and extremely efficient and conversant about their work and duty.
Our cute cabin

Afternoon tea and dinner were served in ship. The food is always served to the local people travelling in lower decks first and later to the tourists. Everything is managed efficiently without any chaos or complication which should be considered as commendable considering the huge number of travelers to cater. We retired early since we shall have to wake up early to get ready by 7am. Morning tea is served at the dinning hall at 6 am followed by breakfast at 7. And disemarkment announcement comes immediately after breakfast. Sleep was quite comfortable in the ship's slight rolling and nice bed! In the drawer above the wardrobe glows with the mark of "life jacket" which makes you slightly uncomfortable in between your sleep sessions in the dark cabin. If there arises the emergency situation of abandoning the ship you will need it!
                                      
                                                     Sun set, first day from top deck
We were lucky to see a horde of dolphins following us on the very first late afternoon at the sunset time from the top deck. Light was not good, neither my hand was that efficient to catch their activities but we felt so lucky and blessed to see them going up and down in a well synchronized manner for quite sometime. I had heard about it so many times but never thought I shall be fortunate enough to see it myself! My poor photographic endeavors in this regard are below.
                                        
                                       
                                         
                                   
                                          
The ship reached the island in the early morning. Naturally it cannot travel near the coral island and anchors in the deep sea. The boats arrive from the island to take the passengers to the islands. Here also the rule is that the ordinary passengers will get down first so long we finished our breakfast. As soon as the announcement is made for the tourists to go down to deck one for this purpose we proceeded wearing our life jackets. The boat and ship both goes up and down in the waves so you need helping hands of the crews to steady yourself at the time of getting in or out of the ship. A number of boats are pressed into this job since a large number of persons are to be taken ashore. The boats actually ferries between ship and island.
                                             

                                      
                                        Boats arriving from Kadmath Island to take us ashore
                                             In the boat, ship can be seen far behind

                                         
                                       The boat crossed the deep sea area to enter the coral lagoon part and the colour of the sea changes from dark blackish blue to bright blue and then to pure soft sea green! You can see the corals of various kinds even from above. It was a visual treat for all.




 The ship is now seen quite far off in the deep sea almost in the horizon. Actually the ship leaves the anchor once all passengers get down to sail to another island for the islanders since ship is the only mode of conveyance available to the islanders. It again returns to take us back in the late afternoon.

Make shift  floating jetty for tourists to arrive in white coral sand beach

You get down at the island's pure white coral dust beach to explore it and enjoy the various kinds of water sports available. Kadmath is a narrow long island so much so that when you are travelling through the island in almost all the places you can sea the sea both in your right side as well as your left side! The experience itself is quite unique and thrilling for all of us.


Once we reached the island we were welcomed with green coconut water. It was refreshing. Once you finish the sweet water you get to eat the soft, tender coconut inside the shell. In every island we went in this tour the same welcome was repeated.
We went for snorkeling after that. A speed boat took us to deeper part of coral lagoon where beautiful corals along with typical marine lives associated with such coral reefs are found aplenty. It was great fun to go for the snorkeling where the local guide showed us different wonderfully coloured corals and fishes in hordes as well as sea anemones, sea urchins and sea cucumbers. I was quite excited to spot a huge eel coming out and going in to the hollows of corals. It appeared as if I'm watching National Geographic channel and actually myself doing the adventures! There are corals which when you touch immediately closes its flower like body.
After returning from snorkeling, I went for kayaking for quite sometime. It was real fun. I thought it will be difficult for me to control the boat or to take it in any particular direction, but was surprised to find its actually quite easy after a few seconds by which time I was able to figure out how to row! Both snorkeling and kayaking were my first experience and may be for that reason I was extremely pleased with my endeavor and enjoyed both the sports quite a lot. After some time more in the salty lagoon water we proceeded for wash room to take shower and get ready for the lunch. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian spreads were served at two different places. We being non-veg were lucky to get our spread beside the sea green coloured coral sea lagoon lined with a few juniper trees! It was beauty beyond description. It felt like we are in heaven.



After lunch we roamed a little around the island and ultimately relaxed in beautiful wooden chairs on the white beach under tree shade.


The whole thing appeared to me unreal as if in a  dream! It was my long dream to come to Lakshwadweep, so when it actually happened it appeared to be unreal! I was becoming too much emotional at times. After sometime we joined others where the cultural activites by the islanders were being performed. These are simple folks. Ethnically they are all Malyalees but they migrated long back to these coral islands and their language though is a dialect of Malayalam, the main land people no more understand their languages. They are all Muslims by religion. Coconut products and marine lives are the only two livelihood for these locals. For everything else they had to depend on the mainland and ships are the only mode of transport.



Afternoon tea was served along with a local sweet dish made by mixture of jaggery and coconut and steamed by folding it in large leaves. I remembered our local delicacy "pathisapta pithe". I have seen it numerous times that cultures of widely different  places of the World and specially different states or zones of India matches uniquely even though large divide of distance, language, culture or religion are there. May be that's the actual unity in diversity of human civilisations. Next it was time to leave for the ship for the night's stay and proceed for our next destination the Island Kalpeni. Before getting into the boat we drove through the island's length to reach the boat jetty at the other end of the island from where ultimately we sailed in the country boats to reach the ship. During this drive we were able understand how narrow is the island since most of the time we could see the sea in right and left both sides! We were quite thrilled. In the morning we landed at the make shift  floating boat jetty only meant for the tourists in white coral dust sand beach. But in the afternoon we started from the regular boat jetty.
Regular jetty of the island from where islanders commute, we left island from here



It rained that night. The sky was over cast in the morning. In the third deck of the ship  the open terrace was quite flooded. At first I thought it was sea water lashed and settled there but came to know actually it rained a lot. We were in deep sleep with the ship's gentle rolling after a day long activities in the island and was totally oblivious of the fact. The ship reached our second destination Kalpeni Island some time during the night and anchored in the deep sea. We started for Kalpeni after having our buffet breakfast. This time the island was much away from the ship and it took us more than half an hour to reach by boat. Kalpeni is a much smaller island than Kadmath but rounder in shape. There are a number of other small islands near by. The island is stunningly beautiful. The lagoon water colour appeared to be in layers of soft whitish green to deep sea green to almost aquamarine blue! In shallow water one or two trees are found standing in sea water making the scenery magical in look. For snorkeling we went to another nearby island and the lagoon in between these two islands are full of huge sea turtles in hundreds. The even smaller nameless island was full of vegetation surrounded by coral reef and wonderful corals and other sea creatures. Sea cucumber are lying all over the place upto the beach and if you are not watchful enough you will definitely walk over them! You can go around this island in a kayak within half an hour. We went for snorkeling for quite a number of times. Here there is no need to take boat ride for snorkeling since corals and marine lives in coral are in abundance near the beach itself. We walked till water rises to  our neck level and then floated wearing the snorkeling gear. Before lunch we came back to Kalpeni and after taking shower and changing we had our lunch again at the sea beach under shade. After resting for sometime we were taken for ride around the island. There was a coconut oil factory which is also making sweets from coconut dry kernels. There was another factory of cotton tee shirts, many tourists bought there to help these poor islanders. Sea at this end of the island appeared to be deep sea since the colour is deep dark blue and quite big waves were found to lash the beach unlike coral lagoons. That side also with its coconut tree line looked wonderful. The road side is strewn with broken corals of all size and shapes.






                                            Snorkeling island as found from Kalpeni
                                              Small island from Kalpeni
                                              Huge sea turtles found here
                                             Going to the snorkeling island

                                               Coral beach strewn with dead corals
                                            At the snorkeling island
                                              The other side of the Kalpeni island

                                              Lagoon as found from Kalpeni

                                                                     Boat Jetty
The return journey that day from Kalpeni was not at all smooth sailing and the passengers of our first boat will remember it for a long time to come surely. I had already narrated above that it rained the previous night and the sky was partly cloudy that day. In fact the coral sea color was also missed to some extent because of that. Always clear sky brings out the best colour of the sea. Our boat was a relatively smaller one. The day was quite windy as a result there was erratic waves lashing on our boat from different directions and water was splashing on all of us. The ship was quite far as I have said already so the path appeared to be never ending. As we progressed further deeper in the sea both the island and the ship appeared myriad like and the waves became bigger and more ferocious. Some started to cry loudly in panic, some others were praying silently. Most of us got  wet by splashing water. At one time the going became quite tough so the boat stopped midway with the boatmen talking over wireless phones with the ship management. They even gave us a foolish meaningless assurance that the ship will come near us to rescue. I understood they are trying to even out our nerves and using some soothers to calm down those who has become hysterical in fear. Waiting for about 10-12 mins like that in mid sea, they again started the engine and slowly reached the ship. There was shout of joy and hope reaching the safety of the ship. It took us more than an hour to reach the ship from the island during return journey. We those who didn't panic definitely felt highly assured once we reached the ship. This memory I know everyone in that boat will remember life long.
It rained a lot that night. We reached the last destination Kavaratti, the capital of Lakhswadweep in the morning. This island appeared to be quite close from the ship. Though later we found that the route of the boat and the disembarkation point is quite at a different place further off from the ship. The ship was quite menacing on this day as well. But because of the previous day's experience, I think the boats which ferried us on this day were much bigger in size. The ride from the ship to the island was just like roller coaster ride! None were allowed to sit at the side of the boat. Waves were lashing this day as well but because we were sitting inside the boat unlike the previous day we did not get wet like the previous evening.
As usual in all other islands we got our welcome drink of coconut water with soft coconut pulp as free gifts. After that I proceeded to enroll myself for the scuba diving which I was trying from the first day unsuccessfully. After enrollment, we proceeded for the glass bottom boat ride. The boat took us to deeper side of the lagoon to watch beautifully coloured corals, coloured fishes and other marine lives like sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sea anemones etc. Naturally everyone was highly thrilled.


                                                       marine life from glass bottom boat

                                                    Corals from glass bottom boats

                                                                  From glass bottom boat

Afterwards scuba training sessions were started by Padi master trainer. In a nut shell which I understood after a considerably long training session that I shall have to remember some basic sign languages with my hand and fingers and will have to go on taking my respiration through mouth so long I'm under water and there is no reason to get panicked since one master trainer will be in charge of you to take complete control in case of any kind of emergency situation! They first test checks whether the person is able to take respiration through mouth wearing the scuba mask and oxygen cylinder as well as whether you are aware or not about the sign languages taught in the training session in shallow water. If you fail to do it efficiently, they do not allow that person to go for scuba diving. Afterwards a speed boat takes a number of divers and trainers to somewhat deeper sea of about 4 M depth and then you are taken down. Under water corals and marine lives come alive in front of your eyes. You can touch live corals and fishes are willing to pick food from your hand. The experience is worthy to have once at least in your life.



With scuba diving all water activites were completed as far as we are concerned. The tour is also coming to its end. After having shower and lunch as usual near the sea beach and relaxing in cane chairs under coconut trees we left for the ship leaving behind wonderful coral islands of Lakhwsadweep! As soon as we reached the ship it sailed for the mainland and ultimately we reached the Willingdon island at Cochi next morning at around 10 am. The dream like tour of four days ultimately came to an end as all good things come to its conclusion living behind a wonderful memory, feelings and experience to cherish life long!!! It's truly my dream come true destination and voyage, a holiday which I shall cherish my whole life.




On the ship sun deck...return journey... nearing Cochi