We got refreshed and had a quick cup of tea with some light snacks which we were carrying with us and expressed our wish to go out for sightseeing to Mr. Hamid. He quite readily agreed to guide us to the valley, otherwise it would have been difficult for us, since we were not aware of where exactly to go and our driver as I have already mentioned in my first part (Off Beat Kashmir part 1) is completely clueless in this regard.
Exquisite walnut wood carved door at TRC, Chandigaon
We started through the scenic as well as serene path amidst the walnut orchards. Here and there fall colour has come on some of the trees. It's totally virgin surroundings with no tourists visible anywhere, and the winding road occasionally passed through some distant villages. We first stopped at two natural lakes which are abundant in Lolab valley as I have already read in different blogs.
walnut tree and fruits
In front of a lake, Lolab valley - which have lots of fishes
Beautiful alpine forest completely devoid of any human habitations or tourists anywhere nearby
You breathe only fresh air in this verdant evergreen forest
Kaliwon, a beautiful nature park created and maintained by Forest Department, Kashmir Government.
Wonderful paddy field lying miles after miles, a feast for your eyes! Since we visited in the early autumn, crops are being harvested. Some rice fields are therefore looking golden while some where it's already harvested, is lying naked! It was sun set time, so the atmosphere looked ethereal.
Sun has gone down behind the mountain leaving a golden glow all around
When we ultimately returned back to the TRC, Chandigaon it was completely dark, after visiting Diver, Wanidoorsa, Kaliwon adventure park etc. We chatted in the living room with some tea and snacks while Mr. Hamid and his assistant cooked our elaborate dinner. In this part of the World life is really hard. Power cuts for long and frequent stretches is the routine as we found everywhere other than Srinagar! The locals including our caretaker with whomever we chatted were narrating more or less the same thing. In their opinion, whatever you hear about unrest and problems of Kashmir it's more a creation of the media houses because that story sells and is not the actual real story. Whatever be it, I was all along moved by their show of warmth, their hospitality, their friendliness everywhere. You got to fall in love of these charming people, if you are a sensitive soul.
The TRC appeared to be built quite lavishly with wooden structure and all wooden decor and furniture but because of its poor maintenance, the condition is at present extremely run down. To our dismay we found that mice are running around in our rooms! We retired early as we were quite tired after the whole day's travelling. Mr. Hamid informed us that we can either go to the mysterious Kalaroos caves or to Bungas valley next day. We decided for the latter since Kalaroos will need trekking of steep mountain which with our knee problems we were sure will be impossible.
We had our breakfast with handmade wonderful oven breads, bakery biscuits made of semolina, along with egg rolls and tea. We started early along with Mr. Hamid as our guide. But just a little later a phone call came to inform Mr Hamid that he will have to report at the Head Quarter Kupwara where a ceremony of World Tourism Day was being celebrated by the Tourism Department. So, he had to leave. He managed to request someone known to him to guide us to Bangus! As we entered Bangus, we found that it's even more beautiful and greener with Birch Forest in most of the mountains surrounding us, a beautiful river was flowing along the mountain path making the view even more charming. As we went further ahead, we found that the road because of the sharp rain on the previous night, which was under repair, is now in a treacherous condition. The locals who were doing the maintenance work forbade us to go any further because the car may get completely stuck! So, we had to turn back and silently thought that this day is not giving anything good to us! First our guide because of some more pressing work had to leave us and then this predicament. We had to turn back.
Beautiful Bangus
Picturesque Bangus
We tried to contact Mr. Hamid on our return journey, but it was quite obvious that he was still occupied with his official duty! When we could not properly explore the complete vista of Bangus we decided to take a try to Kalaroos caves and check how far it is possible to go. We had to take a detour after Kupwara near Lehwal river to go to Kalaroos village and then after some enquiries reached the base point from where you will have to trek uphill to reach the caves. Our driver after taking some tips from the local small shop at the starting point of the trek route advised us to take the help of a village boy who will guide us to the caves. So, we started with the boy through the village trek. After walking a little over a km uphill through the unpaved path, we reached the base point of the mountain from where the gates of the "Kalaroos" caves known as "Satbaran" is visible. The unpaved boulder strewn path by which we came up to this point, ends here. After that its steep mountain slope which you will have to negotiate like expert trekkers or mountaineers. The boy informed us that the caves have cold air blowing inside and these come a little after those "Satbaran" gates! He also informed us that the caves' other end opens to Russia! The name of the caves "Kalaroos" is also due to this reason! The mountain up to "Satbaran" appeared mainly grass covered from this point! These were supposed to be used by Budhhists monks for prayers. Much information is also not available from internet. The legend associated also depicts these fell on the path of the heaven when the Pandavas were taking their last journeys, "Mahaprasthan" and they had taken rest at this abode! Whatever may be the truth, we didn't bother about it because the scenic beauty associated with all these stories had a wonderful, charming effect on us. I was getting extremely tempted to give it a try, but my rational mind told me that it will be not advisable, and I may hurt my already weak knees. Later from net I learned that whatever might be the caves been at one time, it's now permanently lost since the security forces because of the nefarious activities of some miscreants at this part of the world had to detonate inside the caves to close it permanently. We didn't cry over what we couldn't achieve or see but was more thrilled to be able to find even a glimpse of such a mysterious thing!
way to Kalaroos caves, Lolab Valley
"Satbaran" or the seven gates depicting the entrance of the Kalaroos caves from the point up to which we could reach!
When we were climbing down the winding narrow village path, a phone call from Mr. Hamid came to inform us that we should wait at the TRC, Chandigaon and he is coming back after finishing his official duty there and will take us to another site in Lolab! I was so excited and grateful for his sincerity. They are actually very proud of their native places and try their best to boost the tourism here since it has so much potential but not at all promoted yet properly. Only two of us went with Mr Hamid when day has already started to end! After a long journey amidst villages and rice fields and orchards beside a small river, Gratner we arrived at the village called Gratner. There was a small bridge over the bubbling river, and we stopped just crossing it. We walked upwards along the village path crossing the beautiful wooden houses and golden rice fields. All around everything appeared so ethereal and charming in the fading sun rays! Our trip to Bangus and Lolab valleys are coming to an end and the thought that the adventurous trip which started on 23rd September for six days covering Gurez, Tulleyl, Bangus, Lolab valleys is ultimately getting over made me a little melancholy! We walked down with Hamid and he was narrating how to remember the name of this place "gratner" which means grinding stone! He informed us that this place has water powered stone grinder from ancient times to grind wheat and other such crops which grows here in abundance. By the time we reached the bridge over the river light has completely faded. We couldn't find our car anywhere. The phone was not functioning at such a remote place. Assuming he must be somewhere ahead we started walking forward. After quite some time we could see the car, the driver has cleaned his car with the fresh water from the river. It now appeared as brand new but sadly he took his car to clean it to such a point that it got stuck in the soft soil and can't be driven out even when Hamid along with two others tried to push. Hamid had to call the local boys who were actually playing cricket match. But as I told these people are so helpful that they immediately left their game to help in pushing the car without any hesitation. With the help of at least 12-15 people, ultimately the car could be moved from the treacherous place. Security forces were patrolling frequently which always makes me feel uncomfortable, a little scared although my rational mind knows that it's for our safety only! We two ladies in such remote village at dusk waiting for our car to move out, were feeling slightly uncanny when people were placing curious and surprised glances towards us. If it was anywhere else of India, I'm sure this uncanny feeling wouldn't have been felt. The media has such a negative impact on our thought process that I ultimately felt ashamed of myself. These people have showed nothing other than respect and love towards the tourists all along but still because of the constant reminder that we may not be at a safe place we do feel uncomfortable. I think this is the most unfortunate thing both for them as well as for us! Ultimately, we returned to Chandigaon TRC when it was quite dark. This is our last night here which made me sad. We retired after dinner and wanted to explore the place by foot the following morning before we ultimately leave for Srinagar!
Next morning, we had a refreshing stock taking of the beautiful neighborhood of our TRC. Early morning, we went straight across the TRC, this path passes through mulberry plantation, village and the magnificent, long straight poplar trees where fall colour has started to appear. A little ahead there's a village, where morning activities have already started. All around people were casting a curious look to us since they are not used to see only lady travelers with no male members at this part of the World, I'm sure! In fact, tourists itself are rarely seen here. Two ladies going to some errands asked us, " How are we? Where from we are coming? Shall we go for a cup of tea to their home with some nasta?" And this question we have faced repeatedly in these remote corners most probably because of their remoteness they have not yet been baptized with the "civilised( urbanised actually!!!) ways, where you never treat a complete stranger as your guest". There was a time though in our part of the World as well when it was common to see such customs routinely! Civilisation if that means urbanisation has its rules and regulation which is different from those of native, simple, warm people. The first time we faced the question from complete strangers, " or keya khabar", I was completely taken aback, what and why they are asking it? Have we done something wrong?!! Later I understood it means the normal greetings, "Hello"! I felt like laughing ultimately when the meaning became clear to me!
After breakfast we went to the pine forest beside the TRC, which is absolutely serene and could be a wonderful picnic spot. After having long photo shoot sessions, we returned to the TRC to leave for Srinagar although everyone was still feeling that if we could have stayed back!
